Once concrete spalls it continues until it turns to gravel. The spalling was likely caused by the concrete setting up while it was "hot" from the truck, and they added water to slow the curing which caused microscopic cracks and eventual disintegration.

If it's uneven or sinking, I'd have "concrete jacked" or "mud jacked" which uses high-pressure mortar or cement, or urethane foam injected through silver-dollar-size holes from the top. It's very effective and about 1/4 - 1/3 the cost of R&R.

If it were me I'd chip off the still-remaining cracked areas (I suggest a high-blow per minute pneumatic hand- held chipper hammer or even a pneumatic welding slag remover--the vibrating wire-rod type), power wash all the fines and dust off, before it dries use muratic(sp) acid full-strength and power wash immediately. Rinse it two or three times, and let it dry.

Find a commercial floor covering supplier and get some self-leveling compound mix in a bag (fairly expensive at $40 a bag), mix it up and resurface the floor. I'm not sure if it's cementious or a polymer.

At this point you could paint the floor with a commercial floor paint (talk to your contacts at the Big-3 and see what their plant maint. guys use).

Or,

Go online, or go to Home Depot/Lowes and buy their 2-part epoxy floor coating. I've seen some really nice garage floors done with commercial, multi-colored epoxy color chips that get sprinkled on the base coat and hide multitude of surface defects including cracks. One guy had it put down 1/4" thick and up along the concrete baseboard block to create a waterproof cash wash bay at home.

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